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The art of food: Eat with your eyes at Howard Smith’s latest

As chefs continue to push the boundaries of what is possible in the kitchen, the lines between culinary and artistic endeavour are blurring. Mews, the brand-new restaurant at inner-city hotel Crystalbrook Vincent is taking things a step further by welcoming diners into what is best described as a living street-art gallery.

Aug 19, 2022, updated Aug 19, 2022

Imagine artfully crafted dishes served in a slick setting coated in custom work from local artists – it needs to be seen to be believed. When taking into account aroma and flavour, one can reasonably argue that dining out is already a sense-enlivening experience.

Beyond the plate, depending on where you go, the look of the restaurant itself can also add a dash of visual stimuli to the mix. That said, when it comes to really drawing the eye from plate to place, Mews is certainly upping the ante.

The restaurant, located at Crystalbrook Vincent (in the space previously home to Polpetta), is one part eatery, one part art gallery – with a bright and bold aesthetic featuring works from an assortment of Brisbane-based creatives. Boasting a sense of grungy energy reminiscent of New York City’s street-art scene, Mews coats every available inch of space with custom pieces, featuring contributions from the likes of Mr.Sor2Ash TaylorJames EllisJORDACHE and MCRT Studio (joining over 500 prints from Vincent Fantauzzo, which already adorn the walls of the hotel’s rooms and hallways).

Executive chef Andrew McCrea is matching Mews’ vivid aesthetic with an elaborate menu of communal-style eats, honing in on a theme that is described as ‘Brisbanesque’. What does this mean? It means the Mews kitchen team is linking up with local artisans, farmers and fisherman to source as much produce as it can from with three hours of the venue.

In addition to being hyper local, the Mews menu – which features breakfast and dinner offerings – also responds to the movements of seasonality and availability. Early risers can mosey in for eggs Benedict with Garron pasture-raised eggs and press Yatala ham hock muffins, black fennel-cured salmon with spiced Lockyer Valley cauliflower, and duck, fig and rosé cassoulet with Stanthorpe green apples and hay-smoked egg.

Later in the day, guests can treat themselves to Macquarie wagyu intercostal croquettes with smoked bonito, Moreton Bay bug with spicy cornbread, roasted karbullah lamb with seasonal Mapleton farm vegetables, and Abrolhos Island scallops with pressed Gooniyandi pigs cheek.

An extensive wine list takes in a breadth of varieties from established and up-and-coming producers, including Queensland wineries Witches Falls and De Beaurepaire Wines. A tidy cocktail selection includes forgotten classics such as the Charlie Chaplin and the Vieux Carre, as well as signature sips such as the Big Fat Pig (bacon-infused Makers Mark, apricot and mandarin marmalade, chocolate liquor, agave and pancetta) and the Salute The King (Brookies Mac, Brookies dry gin, mint and sweet and sour).

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